Hot Ice in der Schweiz

Sertig!

A destination found in our Alpine Ice book, with a cluster of moderate routes in a pretty amphitheatre. The aspect was north, the altitude was high enough - so there were good prospects for it being in fat condition.

We were not disappointed with the thickness of the ice!

Being the weekend, there were a number of other climbers there too - all Swiss, and once again being Australian marked us out as something a little different. That we were also free camping in the (paid) parking lot - hey, it had a loo and was at the end of the valley, in no-one's way - perhaps also raised some eyebrows. But after we returned expensive gear to a group of new climbers - who had dropped it, then the next day left more behind on a belay - we're pretty sure our free parking was ignored.

These sunny days and very cold temperatures have not been the best for the ice, however. Much of it was brittle to climb on, or extremely wet. On the third day, we climbed the couloir on the right. After getting soaked on the first pitch, we were astounded to find such hard and cracked ice on the following two pitches. How can an icefall be dripping when it's always in the shade and it's -16 overnight?! And then why are the next two pitches so cold and hard?!

Jen leading ...

... and smiling, bad ice or no!

However, there was one particular highlight - Saule, the steepest line there, on the left hand side. Two sustained, steep pitches. The second pitch was lots of fun, as the easiest way to climb it was to step completely inside the goove, being careful how you swung your axes of course but having steps for the feet front, right and even behind. At once stage, you could even take seat against the ice behind you. Stepping back out onto the face was a little tricky, and made even more intimidating for Mark on lead as a crack in the ice became visible (don't worry, we know now it's solid enough) - but all good fun, of course and a pretty impressive lead for Mark.

Mark leading the first pitch ...

... and heading off up the second, just out of the groove.

Having exhausted the lines we wanted to climb, we didn't spend more than three days here. And then it was back to asking hard questions - where to next, eh?

(On a side note, did you know there was a World Economic Forum in Davos, Switzerland this weekend? We didn't either ... but worked it out when we were stopped by the police for an "identity check" just outside the valley, before being stopped in queues of traffic ...)

Heading North

We started near Lake Como, with a typically delicious coffee. Perhaps we were the only tourists in town?

Winding roads up the Maloja Pass ...

... but with great views.

And then we were in Switzerland! Pretty, pristine and pricey.

Australia Day (Italian Style)

We started the day early, hoping to jump on this line - Cold Couloir. Every day we've seen it in the valley, it's been busy ... but it looks spectacular. 600m long, if you go all the way to the top, but most people only climb the first (and best) 7 pitches of WI4+. Not for us today, however! Two parties had woken before us and we didn't feel like waiting around behind them, catching all the ice they drop.

So Plan B: Chandelle Levure (WI4+, 180m).

Not as spectacular in the photo, perhaps - but it turned out to be a fantastic climb and we had a really great day out. A few steeper sections, broken up by easy ground; and although we weren't alone on the route (this is Cogne in high season, after all!), we were first and could keep ahead of the friendly Belgiums and French guys behind us.

Mark enjoying the third pitch ...

... and the fourth!

But the best part of the climb was saved until last ... "magnifique gros free-standing au centre d'un amphitheatre rocheux" - or a magnificent, big free-standing pillar in the center of a rocky amphitheatre. 

It was beautiful to look at and fun to climb. Steep and sustained with all variety of ice shapes. OK, one section was a bit wet - so we were climbing through a shower that froze when it hit you - and some of the ice was a bit thin and patchy, requiring lots of attention to climb.

All up, though - we got to the tree in the sun at the top and congratulated ourselves on a really great day out.

(On a side note ... we found out just as we'd rappelled off that someone had fallen on this last pitch, injuring their ankle. We re-climbed the first pitch of the route, to rig a rappel line for them, and met him and his friends as they came down. More shaken up than seriously hurt, but with a limp and obviously in a lot of pain. We hope he's doing OK and is back on the ice soon!)

A little Lillaz luxury ...

We'd been free-camping in Fred for a while, or parking at Cogne's official van parking space, and to be honest ... we needed a shower and to wash some clothes, and to regain some of our civilisation. Thinking we'd stay just one night somewhere, research revealed a good deal: four nights in a studio apartment in Lillaz for a very fair price.

The apartment - all 30 metres squared of it - has an abundance of space. We don't quite know what to do with it all.

It also has an oven. This means roast potatoes.

After a day out in the snow, is it possible for anything to taste better?!

Whoops!

So we're in Cogne, Italy and the forecast is for cold but clear weather on the way - perfect, as there are more than enough climbs to keep us happy here for quite some time!

Day one didn't quite go as expected, however. We picked a great route in lovely condition, there was perfect weather and although there were a few parties ahead of us, they were friendly.

E Tutto Relativo

But ... first of all, we realised we were an ice screw down. We don't know where it wandered off to, but it's gone. Gear goes missing when you're using it all the time - it gets caught in one of the many layers of clothing, or isn't clipped properly to the harness, and it makes a bid for freedom. Annoying, as ice screws aren't cheap, but it happens - and we've found our fair share of gear here and there in the past, so the cycle continues.

Jen lead the first two pitches of easy and fun ice, and we sat under some the large pine trees with a cup of tea watching the Germans and then the British parties set off up the steep, free-standing ice pillar that is the third pitch. Mark lead this without a hitch, and we thought the day was going fabulously.

Self portrait to check my handiwork

Shortly after setting off, Jen drove her right axe too far into the ice. So she worked her way up to it, got balanced and tried to wriggle it up and down to get it free. It popped out unexpectly early, and flew back ... to hit Jen in the lip. Annoyingly it wasn't the hammer - it was the adze, so the force was a thin edge that sliced her lip open.

Blood and pain: Jen wasn't a happy camper!

She didn't fall off and continued up the pillar, feeling a little shaken up but convinced it wasn't too bad. Mark's face on seeing her lip made her think otherwise! However we did finish the route, with Mark leading the remaining ice pitch, and walked off around the back.


We thought that a bit of ice to numb the area (well, it was in abundance!), a butterfly clip and a medicinal hot chocolate would be enough - however, our fabulous expedition doctor (Dr Steph!) explained as the cut was through the edge of the lip, it would most likely need a stitch and we should get it checked out.

Thankfully, the Cogne doctors' surgery is open late one night of the week - Tuesdays! - and one stitch was quickly put in. Whilst the local doctor was very sweet and sympathetic, no anaesthetic meant this really hurt - more than the original injury, Jen's sure - and Jen felt pretty sheepish, sore and sorry for herself by the end of the day.

Perhaps its time for her to upgrade to ice tools without an adze or hammer - is this the excuse she's been looking for?!

L'Ice 2011

Despite warm weather, we stuck around the Ecrins for the ice climbing festival from 13 - 16 January.

Here's their preview of what it would be like ...


Trailer Ice Climbing Ecrins 2011 qui au 14 16 janvier 2011
Caricato da tlcprod. - Guarda altri video di sport estremi.

... and it certainly lived up to it!

We got to try out some different gear from Petzl, met loads of new people, tried dry tooling (Mark apparently is a natural, Jen was just confused) and did some great ice climbing too. Sure, the crags were packed and there were many queues for routes, but the atmosphere was super friendly. The fact we're Australian certainly made us unique!

On the Saturday night, there was a "big air" ski and snowboard jumping competition, as well as a free-style dry tooling competition which was really inspirational. Figure-4's (hanging off a ice tool, and looping your leg over that arm to reach higher with the other arm) were made to look easy - so easy, they could be done whilst dancing or in a costume. Showing off, perhaps!? But great fun to watch.

Limo Nero ... some photographs

We set off up the valley in the sunshine. There'd been fresh snow, so it was slow going.

On the way we passed by many old, some abandoned, farmhouses made from the local stone: a fabulous location.

And ahead of us was Limo Nero - a long, darkly coloured icefall.

Up close, the fall was silver, rather than blue. Apparently it is a mineral in these mountains that gives the ice this colour, but which one we don't know.

Mark lead the way. Recent snow and then a freeze meant the fall had some crusty patches, for all its interesting colour.

After two very long pitches, it started to snow and the wind picked up. We were not far from the top but decided to head down - naturally, once this decision was made, the weather improved!

Sunset.