Random Cragging

So we're driving along in the rain and see a place to pull over by the side of the road. We stop to stretch our legs and notice the cliffs rising above the creek. Then we see the quickdraws on it …


Overhanging routes that are dry? Well, that's worth a quick attempt!

We managed one and Mark attempted two others. We don't know what sort of grade they go at, but let's just say too-hard-for-Mark!

And half way through Mark's hangdogging, our new Belgian buddies Tom and Evi showed up and dragged us off somewhere warm and dry for coffee and pizza. Considering the rain, a pretty fabulous day really!

Le Dièdre Sud

The last day of good weather before the clouds rolled in!

We'd seen this buttress on our first day in Orpierre – it's hard to miss – and hey, whaddayano, there's an easy route up the centre of it. Perfect!

Described as “following strong features all the way to the top”, the first few pitches were easy enough to find, and pretty enjoyable too. It starts (naturally enough) in a wide corner with interesting stemming moves, before opening out towards the top.


However, the fifth pitch was a bit of a surprise, being a completely unnecessary traverse across a rock face (with paths a metre above and below) – lovely moves, but perhaps a bit contrived! We then worked out that the final two pitches were actually on the face to the right, and not on the edge of the buttress as shown on the topo. Poor form Rockfax! You're normally so reliable, too!




 

What was on the edge of the buttress was the final pitch of Voyage, going at 6a … and that was a far more pleasant way to end the route!
 
 
 
Once up that last pitch, we had lunch on the top - our usual in France, of fresh bread and stinky cheese - before the rappels down.





Haute Provence

Despite the very cold overnight temperatures, it was t-shirt weather in the sun during the day and we made the most of three great days climbing in Orpierre and Sisteron. Well ... it was only briefly t-shirt weather! Cold mornings meant a slow start over tea and croissants, and once the sun hit the horizon at the end of each day, it was hot shower, warm clothes and dinner time.




Orpierre from above!

We can see why Orpierre is such a popular climbing destination; the medieval village at the bottom of the valley and the cliffs rising directly above – and Sisteron too, with the climbing overlooking the river and up to the castle on the hill. Very pretty! The rock is limestone and is solidly bolted, and the grades range from too-easy-even-for-us to too-hard-to-contemplate. Sure it attracts a crowd, but thankfully being there mid-week we managed to avoid it.

Jen at Sisteron

It was also for us a pretty social three days. We caught up with Hans and Richard, from Amsterdam, and also made some new Belgium friends, Tom and Evi, in the heated dining room of the camping site. Good fun.

Welcome to sunny and cold Orpierre!

You won't believe it, but this first proper stop on our trip in the south of France gave us the opportunity to check if the heating in the van still works.

Thankfully, it does – it was well below -5 on our first night. Chilly!

Note the socks!

And as Hans and Richard had already set up camp - complete with slackline - it was a warm welcome.

Pimping our ride!

Fred is now sporting an enhanced arse, and we no longer have multiple pairs of boots getting in our way. We have bought a Fiamma Ultra-Box!
Well actually, this is Mk II.

Despite following all instructions on how to mount the damn thing onto the bike rack, our first attempt to get this box onto Fred was not successful – we had only drilled and bolted on the top bolts when a massive crack appeared in the bottom. We don't know why it cracked, but cracked it did and cracked it was and so back to the shop for a new one … Thankfully the shop assistant was as surprised as we were, and the exchange was no problem.
Having this space does make life in a van full of climbing gear much more manageable. We now know that a T4 is not that big, when you have a hobby like climbing in four seasons.

Leaving the Dam

The party was epic.

The packing is hell.

But tomorrow, we're on our way. Well - hopefully.

A United Kingdom Reconaissance

To celebrate the recent unemployment of Mark, we decided a brief sojourn to England and Wales (with the trad rack, of course!) was necessary.

Sadly, we didn't have much time - so it was merely a day or so, here and there, chasing the sunny weather so we could get out climbing as much as possible. Two days at Tremadog, then another two at Gogarth, before popping up and across to the Lakes and finally heading down to Stanage. All washed down with pints of bitter and fish and chips for tea!