... a home among the gum trees?

So here's Fred, parked under a eucalypt ...

... right near a sandy beach.

No, we're not back in Australia. We're at the local hangout for campers waiting to catch the ferry to Venice from Igoumenitsa. Not a bad spot, eh?

Meteora

Meteora was hot.

So, feeling very much like lazy tourists, we spent a large quantity of our time there by the campsite's swimming pool. From the side of the pool, you could admire the tall rock pillars with their precariously perched monasteries above you (and not even raise a sweat).

The chosen route: up this pillar on the left.

Not wanting to fork out for the comprehensive guidebooks to the area for only a day or so, we tracked down some other climbers for information. Two friendly Germans pointed us in the direction of a route called "Traumfiler", or something like that, that ran up the corner of a large pillar near our campsite. Well within our abilities, it seemed perfect for us the next day.

Jen has to be honest here - she doesn't like conglomerate rock, and particularly doesn't like conglomerate rock with very spaced bolts! So, swearing and sweating, she followed Mark's lead, very happy not to be on the sharp end and feeling not just like a lazy tourist, but like a bad climber as well.

Mark really enjoyed the route and had a great time.

We were both agreed that the view from the top was even better than the view from the pool. (Hopefully the pictures convey the stunning scenery!)

But as we were at risk of dehydration from perspiration, however, it was time to head back to those cool, blue waters ... 

Athens

We arrived in Athens to the news of a general strike. This apparently meant that most of the main monuments would be closed (including the Acropolis). We headed into the city regardless, figuring it would still be more interesting than the campsite.

We got off at the metro station right near Parliament House, where all the protesters had gathered. There were lots of people there and it was busy, but most of them were standing around with a coffee and a cigarette having a chat! There were also all manner of banners and fliers being handed out, and also a small tent city set up by the die-hard protesters who have been there for months, but in general the atmosphere was relaxed and friendly. 

Nevertheless, we decided not to stick around.

And whilst the Acropolis was closed, the Ancient Agora was still open, there are many parks that surround the ancient downtown sites that are very pretty to walk through (and thankfully have lots of trees and shade - it's hot!) and the very new Acropolis Museum was also open - and that was really very interesting, worth seeing before going to the actual Acropolis the next day, and pleasantly air-conditioned, too.

On our way back much later in the afternoon, we ended up passing through the Parliament House station again ... and things were a little different. Exactly the same atmosphere amongst the protesters, with everyone holding a coffee and a cigarette, but there were a few bin fires, a few random olive trees planted in the road, and a strong stink in the air that burned your eyes, nose and throat. 


It had been a good decision not to stick around. 


However, we did like the chain of people passing bottles down a line to a fountain, where the bottles were filled, and then sent from the fountain to the fires - clearly the vast majority of people there didn't want trouble, and were happy to help clean up. 
 

And day two in Athens? Well the tent city was still in place and many of the protesters were still there, smoking and drinking coffee. And as the Acropolis and other sights were now open, we competed with the crowds to complete our sightseeing.

Leaving Kalymnos

We didn't really want to leave Kalymnos. But the weather was getting too warm for climbing, meaning earlier and earlier starts each morning to get onto the rock, and the cooler temperatures - not to mention unexplored peaks, valleys and routes! - in the Alps and Dolomites are calling. So, to say goodbye, we hired a scooter for the day and on two wheels, we discovered some more perfect beaches, visited a castle and checked out our favourite spots once again.

Perhaps we'll be back ...

Stuck on Kalymnos!

Well, the ferry we were meant to catch off Kalymnos left more than two weeks ago. We weren't on it.

What on earth were we thinking, that just under three weeks would be enough on Kalymnos?! Were we crazy?! Three weeks isn't enough - hey, several months might only just cut it. Time really has flown here; despite the fact we've been here now for over a month, there still seems to be so much to see and do (but interestingly enough, not much to blog about ... whoops!)

Evening on the balcony.

We've enjoyed a great week with family, who came all the way over here to include us in the celebrations of a very special birthday. We've done so many amazing climbs we've had to start marking our guidebook so that we can remember them all. We've hung out on a variety of beaches, swimming and lounging in the sun, and noticing the water getting progressively warmer (and the sun progressively stronger!). We have practically been adopted by our landlady, know the supermarket back-to-front and sussed out where to buy the best bread (our local minimarket! strange but true) and the best fresh meat (Pothia's largest butcher makes amazing sausages), but we're still not sick of eating the local waxed fetta cheese. Oh, and did we mention the fresh fish ...!?!

So ... we changed our tickets to a later date. All good things must come to an end but thankfully, that end is not yet nigh.

Wild Country

Kalymnos isn't famous for its long multipitch routes, but it does have some!

Nobu, a friend we'd made in Turkey who we met up with again on Kalymnos, had been recommended "Wild Country" and asked us if we'd be interested in climbing it with him. It sounded great: a long but easy multipitch route on Telendos, the small island across from Kalymnos. The route goes something like this: catch the ferry across, walk around the island to the climb, climb up and hike over the top and back down again. All pitches and belays, of course, are meticulously equiped. 

Heading around to the back of the island to find the climb ...

... the start of the route was well-marked - this is Kalymnos, after all!

We were behind a couple of parties, but they were moving fast - we just took our time and enjoyed the view! We each lead a couple of the pitches, swapping the ropes around at belays. Nobu had never climbed with two ropes before, this being one of his first multipitch climbs and the first with three people, but he handled it perfectly.

Nobu enjoying the view, a few pitches up - despite a bit of wind, we had great weather for it.

... then Mark lead one: token shoe shot.

Jen lead the first two pitches ...

Heading out of the belay cave and up!

Jen on belay, nearing the top.

The top! Looking back to Kalymnos.

Once we'd topped out, we sat and enjoyed the view some more over lunch,, washed down with the bottle of red wine that Nobu had brought along - delicious! Then headed over the hill and down the ridge, past the ruined monastery, and back to the ferry terminal.

All that's left of the old church.

Kalymnos!

We've arrived on Kalymnos, settled in and enjoyed two amazing days of climbing.

New home.

A crag and its goats.

The view. Ahhh.

We don't want to leave. Ever.

Kos (and a long overdue family catch-up)

View from the balcony at dusk ... time for a rose?

Ah the beach ... we swam out to the island, and clambered up the rocks for an amazing view.

Easter Sunday lunch - yep, that's a whole lamb. The other one is slow-cooking in the wood oven ...

Sisters.

Steph flew in from Oxford to meet us on Kos, and we spent six lovely days over Easter eating, drinking and chatting. We also swam, sunbaked (supervised by our dermatologist, of course) and admired the goats and chapels and the wild, rugged scenery. Perfect.